ALBANIA ~ The Rare Gem Between Two Seas
CompassChaos13 Collective Blog
Flag of Albania taken by CompassChaos13 in Tirane, Albania
First Time Adventuring Through Albania
CompassChaos13 ‘s Travel Experiences
Fresh off our new Global Adventure, CompassChaos13 & our hubby, had the privilege of being hosted by two unbelieve countries, Greece & Albania. This blog is focused just on our adventures, tips and experiences we learned while traveling through Albania, this hidden gem of between two seas. (Greece, will be coming soon, promise)
This incredible country is an adventurer's gem! (Even without the loss of a wallet, almost some tempers and smart hubby thinking. That will be podcast episode) From it’s up-coming capital Tirana to the breathtaking mountain towns and magnificent seaside sunsets.
Arriving in Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (TIA), you will step out onto the tarmac with the other parked jets; to us that is always a great experience. The transfer to over the terminal is a quick walk , the entry through security and customs was extremely quick & easy (we fly out of Boston) for most with E.U. or United States Passports. Once cleared, you will walk out to see drivers for parties or families, if you don’t have this, after you pass the little semi-gated area, turn to the left. The exit is just in front of you, this is where the rental cars and taxis are waiting. You will have many to chose from, both taxis and car rentals. Pre booking a car rental is a good way to make sure you have your insurance card, without having to go to another kiosk or stop at the border, if you are planning to leave Albania). We had a pre-booked car rental, but arriving in Albania, hubby discovered he lost his wallet; somewhere between London Heathrow and Tirana International; so change of plans. We took a taxi to our hotel, Hilton Garden Tirana at the cost of 24 Euro, and hubby saved the day with quick thinking.
Pro Tips:
Always, Always when traveling book the no deposit car rental when pre-booking. As for hotels, ideally same day or 24 hours prior, but absolutely nothing over 3 days cancellation for full refund.
Google Wallet works if cards are accepted in Albania, look for VI, MA,AX signs in the door/window or simply ask an employee. Greece no problem at all using Google Wallet.
Tirana is a vibrant capital with beautiful streets, enriching historical monuments and a foodie haven! While most start in Tirana, the capital, we are leaving that for another trip. This adventure blog is focused mainly in the outer areas of Albania, which is where most of our experiences happened.
Having started our Albanian Adventure at the southern border with Greece, at the Kakavia Greece Border, you must be prepared. For us we rented in Albania so we didn't need the green card for Albania (we had to do that when we entered Greece from Albania). For those that are renting a car in Greece, here are some pro tips to make your experience smoother:
Make sure your car rental has a the emergency kit in the trunk that contains: a reflective road vest, reflective triangles and a first aid kit
Make sure everyone in the vehicle has their passports at the ready
WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE RENTAL CAR COMAPY of your choice
Insurance Green Card (there are several insurance kiosks at the border crossing where you can pay directly. It’s wise to have Albanian Lek OR Euro on you prior to getting to the border)
VALID REGISTRATION CARD for the vehicle
You will stop twice, be prepared to show all above documents at both stops (especially for the driver) First is border security; Second Customs
*For those renting in Albania traveling to Greece, the same information stands. Border crossing by car is easy, watch the signs, lanes open and close quickly so be prepared for erratic maneuvers (you may have to make some yourself).
What we didn't know was, Black Friday is a “thing” in Europe as well (not our first time in Europe on the Friday after Thanksgiving), and really big in Greece for Albanians since they can shop duty free in Greece. (This memory will be a Podcast story, not a blog). Let’s just say that getting through wouldn't have been so long had we known about “Black Friday”. 🤦
On to Gjiroskater, (The Stone City) Albania. Here is where Google is unreliable at best, instincts are on point but logic resists and the complete reliance on locals is a necessity. In old town areas, be aware the roads are narrow, two way traffic, parking is mainly anywhere a car can fit and painted lines, are there if you look hard enough.
Road to/from Kalemi Hotel in Gjirokaster, Albania. Photo taken CompassChaos13 in Gjirokaster
When staying in the Old Town, do not rely on Google maps. From very recently (November 28-Dec 3, 2025) it has not recognized that there are pedestrian ways; only that are still is a most direct to get to your accommodations. Google Maps is from 2016 when there were no pedestrian walkways.
It is vital, if staying in Old Town to reach out to your accommodations asking the following:
Parking at hotel private/paid or street/third party paid parking
If there is no parking, where is the closest that are you affiliated or have a contract with, how far is it from the accommodations and is there baggage assistance offered.
Knowing that parking is limited in most of Europe, we knew that accommodations with parking were a requirement for our adventure. We just didn’t understand the restrictions of the roads in the old Towns of Albania, even with driving experience in 10 European Countries, nor the limits of the parking available at some of the accommodations when staying in the old town sections. Here in Gjirokaster, we booked the Kalemi 2 Hotel but with an A/C malfunction (it wouldn’t shut off, an unusual problem in winter in Europe) so we stayed at the Kalemi Hotel which is their sister building, just as nice and accommodating as Kalemi 2.
Hotel room at the Kalemi Hotel in Gjirokaster, Albania. Photo taken by CompassChaos13 at the Kalemi Hotel
(https://dmc.kalemi.com/en/accommodation/master-932614/hotel-kalemi-2 this is the best link for hotel information only, we did not use this link to book, we contacted the hotel directly by email, as we did most of our hotels in Albania except in Tirane & Durres)
Our hotel was only a short walk to the following:
Gjirokaster Castle
Clock Tower
Nostalgia Tunnel
Old Town (shopping & food & old architecture)
Day Trips include the following:
Permet (Thermal springs, horseback riding, white water rafting, hiking etc.)
Butrint National Park (UNSECO SITE) https://maps.app.goo.gl/dTJ6xAtQcVLHz9f88 website: https://butrint.al
Sarade (Beach Town with Cruise Port)
Ksamil (smaller Beach Town)
In the small area of the Old Town there are many gracious and delectable eateries… from traditional Albanian cuisine to Pizza with an Albanian twist. We spent most of our time exploring the different eateries that this area has to offer, along with the coffee, beer & raki.
Pro Tips:
If you are offered a beverage (coffee, tea, raki) from the place or person you are visiting, IT IS DISRESTFUL to refuse.
Raki, is made from grapes but is close to what an American would deem as “moonshine” drink with caution. Albanians know how to hold their liquor, still be respectful while having a good time… consume wisely & respectfully.
We had the most unexpected experience of a lifetime during our stone carving experience. We booked through Get Your Guide (we also use Viator as well) which is a third party for C-Adventures which has a location in Gjirokaster. We met at the location which is the C-Adventure location, the agent there was amazing. There had been some mis-communication and the booking didn’t come through to them though the we had received the tickets for the experience. The agent walked down to the stone shop where the Master was getting ready to close up…. The Master took us in, taught hubby to make a snake and us to make a frog (I want to try the Albanian Flag, but to detailed gestured the Master). As hubby worked on his masterpiece, the Master was telling us about a man named Chris from Philly, that he somehow met and is in Albania. We learned only 1 word the whole time in Albania, but it is the most important word to know Faleminderit which translates to Thank You.
We were offered raki, the national drink of Albania, after having an amazing stone carving experience with a master stone mason, who knew no English, and we knew no Albanian.; which did not matter since we were able to communicate with each other without the need for a common language.
Doing our research prior on cultural customs, we graciously accepted, cheered our most gracious host and sipped our raki. Two sips was all we could muster, thankfully hubby enjoyed the raki a bit more than we did. After the guys’ second cup of raki, another gentleman walked in. This gentleman, was Chris from Philly! Chris has been living in Gjirokaster for over 17 years, he came to Albania in the Peace Corp., fell in love with the country, culture and people so much he decided to stay once he was out. He even offered homemade raki of his own and great conversation with interoperations.
Photo taken by CC13 in Gjirokaster, Albania. Top left Chris from Philly (moved there 17 years ago), Top right Master Stone Mason, Bottom Left CC13 Heather, Bottom Right CC13 Hubby
A stone carving experience & Gjirokaster Castle, has to be on your Life Adventure Goal sheet. The history is a story worth hearing and the architecture is one worth seeing. We thought two hours would be sufficient to wander through the castle admiring the structure and giving credit to its history; we were wrong, we stayed for over three hours, there was so much to explore. We would recommend doing your historical research prior to exploring the castle since the historical boards are far and few in between.
From the castle we wandered down from the castle to the walk below, stumbling on a small business run by an older Albanian woman. For 1 Euro or 100 Lek, we gained entry to over 3,000 years worth of Albanian history inside a Cold War Tunnel!! This woman was so warm and inviting with a quick breakdown of the most interesting things then allowing us to go off into the tunnel to discover more of her treasures. Nostalgia Tunnels, is the name of the business; expect a hug and a kiss from the proprietor. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nostalgia+Tunnel/@40.0737139,20.1366352,634m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x135b1d6b089beacb:0x136667b88b2e034e!8m2!3d40.0737098!4d20.1392101!16s%2Fg%2F11v3x9jqv8?authuser=0&entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MTIwNy4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D
Our recommendation for a delicious Albanian meal and great coffee, Libraria Restorant & Bar, which was the oldest book store in Albania. The food was delicious, we had the meatballs (big and oblong) with red sauce over we think was potatoes, plantain or some better variation of, the stuff mushrooms which are huge with a wonderful creamy cheese and a fabulous stuffing that I have no idea what was in it. Hubby had these chicken croquettes, with a olive basil oil drizzle and a creamy cheese dollop on top. That was for dinner the night of arrival. Having such a great experience we went back for afternoon coffee the following day; starting and ending with cappuccino's then deciding that a light snack we needed, we ordered the chicken pie. If you want something warm, flaky, with shredded chicken and finely chopped leeks in a nice rich sauce all in one dish on November day, this would be the dish! https://maps.app.goo.gl/DTvvWd8Pkhzwg3tb7
Then to walk off that wonderful comfort food, a short stroll browsing the local shops. Even in the dead of tourist season in November there are still souvenir shops, antique shops with Cold War Era Memorabilia and woodworking or stone carving shops that yearn to be explored or better yet, experienced.
CompassChaos13’s Hubby tries his stone mason skills under the watchful eye of a Master. Gjirokaster, Albania
Driving from Gjirokaster to Berat, the highways are seamless and well maintained. We are happy to report that Google Maps does work correctly, for the most direct route.
Tip: We found it helpful to have the map up on satellite view with the arrow instead of another icon. There are many roundabouts/rotaries that have small off shoots that may or may not be counted as a exit, so a quick visual reference is helpful.
Berat’s old town is divided, both sections have the same type of narrow stoned streets, little to no parking or rugged for residences at best. However, along the main road if you are lucky to come in the low season Nov - March then parking along the main road should not be an issue before 9am to about 2pm and before 6pm. This is another location to, wander the allies, hike up to the castle and just sit enjoying the food and sights of town. If you want to experience the sunset on the city of a thousand windows, stay in the Gorcia Neighborhood which is on the west side of the river. We stayed at the Grandview Hotel in a balcony room, which has breathtaking views. The houses along the east side of the river are lined with windows facing west so that it catches as much sun for light and heat as possible. With a slight cloud to the sky, the sun dipping below the mountains to cast a brilliant glow on the widows and the lights just starting to come in to light the way for the evening community stroll, is magical.
Wandering down some ally’s you may find some surprises, we found a short memorial to the history of Berat in an enclosed area off a back ally; which truth be told, we thought was a short cut to get back to the hotel.
Walking Distance from Grandview Hotel:
Gorcia Neighborhood
Gorcia Bridge
Bachelor’s Mosque
Gate of the Pasha
Old Town Berat
Wonderful Alleys
The Promenade Along the Ishull River
Our recommendations for food & drink:
Eni Traditional Food Berat https://maps.app.goo.gl/icAe93JA6v9AbH2i8 (Rolled Meat with Cheese highly recommended)
Zonja Gjene https://maps.app.goo.gl/3r2hb34nJAD2bwGw5 (chicken soup freshly made thick and creamy…yummy!)
Sunset from Gorcia side of Berat Albania, photo taken by CompassChaos13 at the Grandview Hotel
https://www.bookalbaniahotels.com/en/hotel/grandview-hotel.html
Making our way to our last area, Durres, on the Albanian coast. After having been road tripping for 12 days into the 15 day trip, we were very happy to have the choice of either another adventure day before we leave or a nothing but eat and coffee day. (By this point we sampled every local beer Albania had offered us)
Coming into a bigger more densely populated city, make sure you stay vigilant while driving.
Driving Tips:
Two lanes one way suddenly after a small rotary/roundabout it becomes a two lane with on coming.
People step out, doors swing open, dogs chase cars and cars come out of the side streets with their noses up to your quarter panel; this is normal.
Don’t panic, be firm but courteous, a simple honk says “hi, I am here”….. you are encouraged use your horn in short blasts
Use flasher when coming up on traffic on a highway or when you see any need that a quick slow down may require warning to the people behind you
Be prepared for more roundabouts/rotaries then street lights, this includes city intersection major and small.
Traveling in the “high speed lane” is a no, you should only use it for passing. Give yourself amp time to pass & also the car coming up behind you, most of the cars in Europe have a delay in pickup, this includes at a stoplight.
Arriving in Durres we checked into the Adriatik Hotel, BW Collection https://www.adriatikhotel.com in time for an afternoon stroll along the promenade which is over 3 miles, and we did walk end to end. This hotel is directly set on beachfront, with its own section for beanbag chairs and tables for lounging; tables and chairs for beach side snacks and the restaurant for lunch and dinner. We booked a standard king room, when we arrived we were upgraded to an Executive Suite with a Balcony (Faleminderit), greeted by Alli who made sure we had everything we could possibly need and he even saw us at one point looking for the indoor pool and pointed us in the right direction. Where after a peaceful salt water swim and a good sweat in the sauna, we feel asleep on the lounge chairs listening to the serine music and the waterfall in the background. We went back to the room to change, just in time to catch a jaw-dropping sunset.
After a nice cat nap, it was time for dinner. We highly recommend Otantik Turkish Restaurant & Bristo https://maps.app.goo.gl/qpi6UkFkLJTgzgMR8 we ordered a chicken wrap and the beef shish. While we waited the chef offered us a plate of Ezme, it is a pepper based dip with herbs (from what I could taste: basil, cilantro, garlic, onion and oregano) with fresh bread. It was mouthwatering! While we were there, a local vocalist was preforming, he was incredible. At the end of the meal, we were offered a cup tea. We drink, happily. Another experience that was so memorable we went back the next night and ordered a shrimp plate that came with a fresh flat pita, melted cheese and wonderfully aromatic spices and hubby got a mix wrap.
With the following day being based how we felt when we woke up, we took a stroll along the street the parallels the promenade stopping here and there for coffee and a pastry. Making it back to our hotel room full and happy.
Our last full day before returning to reality, we decided to keep a low profile. Waking up later than 7am, taking in a late breakfast, then going back for a nap since it was a rainy day. Waking from our nap we felt a sense of adventure and headed out to the downtown are of Durres since our hotel was in the resort area of the city. After finding another narrow road that has parking anywhere that you can fit and making an 18 point turn we parked just down the road from the Durres Amphitheater. Paying the 600 Lek or 6 Euro for the both of us to enter, we wondered all through over and around the ruins for about an hour and a half, seeing everything that sight currently had to offer. From here we walked down to the Venetian Tower, and some of the remains of the city walls. Getting back to the car we remembered that in Albania, the car rental must be cleaned inside and out before returning the car. So we found a great car wash that washed the outside and did the inside for 600 lek or 6 Euro. What a deal, plus that did a fabulous job! With a clean car we headed back to the hotel to relax and pack our bags to go back to reality.
The drive from Durres to Tirane airport is about 30-45 minutes pending traffic and where in Durres your accommodations are located. Most hotels in the resort area have paid shuttles to the airport.
CompassChaos13 Final Thought
This has been our first road trip through Albania, who was such a gracious and loving host. We only just scratched the surface of what this lovely country has to offer. We look forward to discovering more of this hidden gem called Albania in the coming years.
We have a special follow up blog for those that would like to know more about this hidden gem: ALBANIA ~ Country of Hospitality & History
“Live Life Thinking You Will Cease Tomorrow, Plan Your Life Thinking You’re Immortal. The Choices You Have in Front of You TODAY Are the Ones That Matter NOW” ~ Heather Original Quote
🌏💋❤️ Stay Feral, Never Fragile.
Pssst... we have a secret... only CC13 Escapees are privy... hint: (✅ Become an Escapee)
Sign up for our free newsletter 💌 for exclusive access to our best "Trust the Mess" content, travel tips, and adventure stories.
Encourage the Global Connection 👏 to help us keep sharing these unique perspectives. Your support keeps us on the road and delivering valuable, independent content.